Two Days in Mexico City

An “Accidental Tourist” Weekend Escape

Live Life Now..

A few weeks ago, I was standing in downtown Austin just after sunset, thinking about photo locations for the evening. Social media may be the inspiration I’m needing about now to get me motivated.  So, I of course surfed Instagram. Most of the people I follow are landscape photographers. Some of the best in the world submit their moment in time, and I’m often inspired by their works of excellence. While scrolling, I see a post from an aspiring photographer in Washington, DC. I met Monty the weekend of Maddie’s birthday in November. Maddie had a sleepover that Friday night, so walked around Silver Spring taking photos. Monty had his new Nikon was fresh out of the box and he had questions. 23 degrees outside and 3 hours later, I had a new friend and DC was getting an amazing photographer.. Every few weeks, I’d send him a note, to see how he was doing. On this day in January, things were different. He was talking about a GoFundMe account for his wife. Instantly, I sent him a message. The response was life changing. While at work, he got a call from his young daughter. “Mommy is asleep in the shower,” she said. While taking a bath, she apparently lost her footing, hit her head and died. How many of you have slipped in the shower? I know right. After learning that news, I took my photos around Austin and went home. Living life now was the focus. Tomorrow is not given and I had tragic proof, again.

The State Department said….

Be careful if you go to Mexico City.” Funny, The State Department never issue travel warnings to Chicago, Detroit, Southeast DC, Compton or Miami. If you watch the news (I used to), people in those cities are killed like mosquitos in the summer. But, I digress. So I booked the trip to Mexico City.. Southwest Airlines had the trip for $180.00 out of Houston/Hobby, so why not?  You waste that kinda cash at HEB, Kroger or Harris Teeter. Speaking of Southwest,  I also finalized plans for Glenn Jr. & I to go to Belize. That story is a few weeks from unfolding.

Airports & Ubers

Fast forward a few weeks, and I’m at the FastPark lot at Hobby Airport. My flight is scheduled for takeoff at 12:50pm, but first a 10:45 telephone call with my boss about an upcoming project. On this late morning, it was partly cloudy and 72, the perfect weather for an teleconference. We just landed a new project and it’s always good to make sure your manager is good with the direction of the plan. Then, off to the terminal. On this day the Southwest terminal was calm, as I showed my passport, awarded a ticket with the stamp “Docs Ok,” and I moved on to TSA and eventually gate #1 in the international terminal. The gate was abuzz with locals from both the United States and Mexico. After boarding, we were quickly off and on our way. As usual, I was asleep within seconds of pushing back from the gate. When I woke up, they were taking drink orders. “Ginger Ale and a water please? Thanks so much.”

Landing in Mexico City, you can quickly see how huge this place is. The 5th largest City in the world seemed to stretch for miles.  Taxiing to the gate took a few minutes and we were off quickly to customs. Customs? I have one word, “WOW.” It was easier getting through the antiquated customs process in Havana than the facilities in Mexico City. Modern and out of date at the same time, yeah. :45 minutes of my life I can never get back. Clearing customs and heading out to to find an Uber was its own experience.

Walking out the door,  this was the first reminder I am in a second world country. You are warned not to wander off property, as this is the real “hood.” Now, on to the hotel. The first Uber drove right past me.. What the hell? It was warm and I wanted to explore. The second driver pulled up, I jumped in and we were off. Mexico City around the airport is straight gangster, seriously.  While not feeling threatened, it was eye opening.  We drove through the city enroute to my hotel. What an incredible experience. In other countries, I always take time to appreciate the world these people live in. Judging? Never. Just an observer. The metropolis began to change from impoverished to prosperity. I learned my hotel was in more of an affluent area and the topography began to reflect that. Yeah, I’m breathing a sigh of relief.

Hotels, Earthquakes & Zimms

A few minutes after checking in, this visit began to change as geography began kicking in.  As I was crossing the street from my hotel, the ground began to move. You know, that feeling when you’re on an aircraft and hit unexpected turbulence and the plane drops 100 feet. At this moment, I began hearing the earthquake sirens and thousands of people running out of buildings and into the street. The stop lights and street signs were violently shaking. Traffic came to a screeching halt with people all around me looking up and down. At the same time, they were on the phone with loved ones, reassuring and being reassured.  I was one my way to meeting a friend of my lil’ sis Sonia when the world was beginning the shake. Marcie was here in September of 2017 when the last, catastrophic quake hit the area. She was frantically texting me within moments of the earthquake. I checked my messages and then looked up to see the sky full of helicopters. Apparently, emergency services launch everything that flies to survey for damage.  And then it was over. My first earthquake was now in the books. Hopefully, my last such experience. Now, onto the Hotel Condesa DF rooftop bar. As I walked in that direction, I passed hundreds of people standing in the street, patients (still in gowns) from a nearby hospital taking fluids via IV, parents clutching their children and a mostly a feeling of calm slowly settling in. On the other hand, several women were in a rundown building getting their nails done as I walked by. Apparently, an earthquake wasn’t slowing this group down.

The Condesa DF is an elegant hotel with an amazing rooftop bar. I was supposed to meet Marcie there. I arrived few minutes early and was directed by the concierge to the express elevator to the roof.  When the door opened, a triangle shaped bar was in front of me. In the middle of the triangle, views of the internal courtyard leading to the lobby and restaurant areas three stories below.  I surveyed the area while watching the sun quickly approach the top of the skyline and edges of the nearby mountains. I snapped a few photos, and found myself talking to a group of 20-somethings on vacation from San Francisco.  Of course, they were a bit more used to earthquakes than this Virginia guy and outwardly laughed at my anxiety of the events from less than an hour ago. A few minutes later, Marcie walked in larger than life, and full of positive energy. She and Sonia were at the University of Texas back in the day. Marcie has been in Mexico City for 4 years. We shared stories and wandered off to find dinner.  We ended up at an Italian place called Lardo, waited for seats and ended up dining at the bar. Marcie warned me of the dangers of Mexico City, including the story a co-worker who was carjacked and killed in recent weeks. She did a pretty good job of scaring the crap out of me. Dinner was over, and I was about to head back to the hotel, but she felt nervous about me walking and put me in an Uber and sent me on my way. Being the “Accidental Tourist,” I had to go and explore. I’ve never felt nervous wandering at night before, so off I go! After walking past a “Chicken and Waffles” joint (who knew?), I found myself at a traffic circle with a series of coffee shops, restaurants and bars. Locating the most lively, I found a seat. Here, the crowd was trying to get their minds off the earthquake events of the past few hours. The lovers “loved” on each other, the singles “mingled” and the rest of us were just trying to fit in on a Friday night. It was exciting to people watch and get settled in. A local guitarist walked amongst the crowd, soothing listeners with original music rolling from his fingertips. Yes, this will be part of the Mexico City I remember going forward. The night was no longer young and the bed was calling. It was a quiet walk back to the hotel and sleep quickly followed.

Sunrise, Pyramids & Dehydration

Today was to be my “busy” day. When I arrived, the hotel Bellman tried to sell me on several tours around the city including my destination of choice,  Teotihuacan.  Price tag, $80.00. Always trying to pretend I’m a local, I opted for the 9:30am ($3.00) Uber ride to the regional bus station and the $9.00 round trip to the ruins. But that was several hours away. I got up for the sunrise. It was chilly as I hurried out the front door of the hotel. I randomly turned right, another right and heading towards the Mexico City Independence Monument along the Reforma. It’s always exciting watching other cultures begin their day. The funny part, no matter where you go it’s all very familiar. I walked past several businesses about to open. The shop owners hurried to make their establishments as presentable as possible before the morning rush begins. After a few blocks, I found the monument. People were actually already there taking pictures. Apparently, I’m not the only tourist roaming the streets of Mexico City. Finishing my photos there, I walked to another location called “Monumento a la Revolution..” It was about a kilometer away. Wait, how far is that again? I would soon find out. The sun was rising but the morning was still cool and crisp as I walked towards the next destination. Walking along, I began seeing more people on riding city buses. Most were heading to work all over the city. After another round of picture taking, I headed back to the hotel for a nap, in preparation for what could be a very long day (and it was).

Waking up, it was 9:15 and time to find an Uber. Scurrying towards the front of the hotel, a driver in a nondescript Nissan pulled up, I jumped in and we were off to the bus depot. The people here don’t speak english, and this guy was no exception. On the other hand, I was not in Atlanta so I had to get over it and move on. Arriving at the bus station was its own experience. It easily reminded of an international airport terminal at peak hour. The place was packed! And here I am, the lone American with camera bag and tripod looking for the one counter selling tickets to Teotihuacan. I’m not exaggerating when I say this place was buzzing with activity. At the extreme far left end, I saw the words for Teotihuacan and I was good. While in line (about 50 deep) I hear an english voice behind me. A guy from Chicago had the same 48 hour mission for Mexico City like me and he was trying to take in as much of the city as he could too. As I’ve never met a stranger, we caught up like old friends while waiting for the bus to arrive. Wait, what’s his name again?

The bus arrived on time and we boarded. Like Playa del Carmen, it seems like everyone is trying to sell you something. On this trip, they were trying to sell water and juice. Later, you’ll learn why I was an idiot for not spending a dollar for a couple of bottles of water. The ride to the ruins were about an hour. Early in the ride, I surveyed the “suburbs” of Mexico City. A mountainous region, the route was dotted with communities a far as you could see in any direction. I drifted off to sleep, only to wake up as we approached the drop off area for the ruins.

Getting off the bus, you are almost “swamped” by the sea of people trying to sell you everything from caps, maps, water and masks of this ancient place. Booths were on each side like a gauntlet daring you to pass through. The last stop before the ruins were the restrooms, which seemed odd to me until you learn you have to walk nearly a mile to get to the pyramids and the “facilities” out there are scarce at best.

From this distance the pyramids were towering. The air is thin here, as we are nearly 7500 feet above sea level. The polluted skies of Mexico City did not taint this place The air is clear here and the dry heat starts early in the day and slowly takes all of your moisture before you’re done.

An impressive city of 125,000-200,000 inhabitants, by the 6th century, Teotihuacan was the first large metropolis in the Americas. Teotihuacan, as the city is called, is a Náhuatl name that means “the place where the gods were created” and was given by the Aztec centuries after it was abandoned in the 7th century. The Aztecs attributed names and significance to its buildings but had no contact with this earlier culture. Very little is known of the people who built Teotihuacan, and as a result much of our knowledge of the site, its art, and Teotihuacan culture is derived from Aztec sources. Largely created before 250 C.E., Teotihuacan is a testament to the ambition of its people, who built the first American city on a grid plan. Due to an absence of (or as of yet undiscovered) royal palaces and graves, the lack of evidence for a cult of personality, and the as-of-yet undeciphered hieroglyphs, the governing system of Teotihuacan remains largely elusive to scholars. Nevertheless, the dramatic monumental architecture and dense urban fabric reveal a complex environment carefully planned to support a large population but also structured by the surrounding natural environment and in relation to specific constellations and planetary events. In keeping with the stratified nature of other Mesoamerican societies, Teotihuacan also benefited from rulers, or a ruling elite, who commissioned massive architectural landmarks such as the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon, and who spread Teotihuacan’s sphere of influence throughout Mesoamerica—even into the Maya region as far away as Guatemala.

The walk down the “Avenue of the Dead” is haunting. So much history here, weathered by time yet still rich in culture and heritage. The only insane part of the walk, literally every 3 feet someone was trying to sell the SAME mask and or trinket. It’s like the vendors were just trying to wear you down to eventually buy something from them. Close inspection of one mask, clearly showed a “made in china” sticker. Junk, just like I thought. Moving forward, the two pyramids are both accessible by stairs. The “moon” pyramid is roughly half the size of the “sun” pyramid, yet you’re only able to climb half way up the “moon.” Keep in mind, this is the world’s third tallest pyramid group. I walked past the “sun” thinking I’d give the shorter pyramid my first effort. Climbing up the “moon” was daunting! I’m told the people who built these pyramids were not the tallest in stature, yet the so called steps were 20 inch blocks. It kicked my butt to climb to the plateau area, but the view was slightly spectacular and I was thankful to make the climb. I was winded, and thirsty. Why didn’t I buy that bottled water for a dollar again? Stupid tourist move on my part. I spent more time than most on the plateau only to gather my strength for the walk down the steps and my eventual date with the “sun.” While walking, I asked several vendors if they had water. “We are not allowed to sell bottled water here, so not to pollute the grounds..” But it’s ok for the tourists to pollute the grounds with bottled water they bring in on their own? Got it. Makes no sense, but not my country so I soldier on.

At the bottom of the “sun” I met a lady from Detroit who’d been “duped” to spend $90.00 for a guide. She, like me didn’t have water either but was excited to make the climb. Me, not so much. As I began walking up, and holding on to the rope, I knew I was in trouble. About ⅓ up I looked out to survey the terrain and things began to turn “white.” I began getting dizzy and my body said stop. I noticed I was no longer sweating as dehydration was kicking in. This tourist was fading fast and not in a good way. I remember some guy walking up and saying “are you alright buddy? Uh, negative as I’m stretched out sideways on a pyramid, laying on my camera bag..” So this is how you feel before you die, I thought. Then it all became clear, the more than few margaritas from the previous evening had sucked all of the water from my body. I would have recovered naturally on a normal day, but not while climbing a pyramid! This was not going to end well. Like always, God had other plans in the form of two local women who were watching from a distance. They just “happened” to have a 2 liter bottle of water handy and gave it to me. First a sip, and then a gulp, finally inhaling the bottle life slowly began to return. Gingerly walking down the steps to flat earth, this pyramid had beaten me, or had I beaten myself? Yes, and yes. I walked back to the entrance in silence. Upon reaching the cluster of shops, I purchased 2 additional bottles of water to completely replenish my body fluids. Did I learn from this? Yes and no. The bus arrived and I slept during the ride back to allow my body to heal some. If I could get the water vending contract, I could retire in a month I dreamt. Back in the city, I was meeting Marcie and her motorcycle salesman turn best friend for dinner downtown. Part 3 of this day long adventure was yet to unfold.

Zocalo, Chinese New Year and New Friends

Marcie had been meeting with a friend for business and wanted me to join them down at the Zocalo, which is the main square in Mexico City. If you saw the James Bond film Spectre, this square was part of the opening action sequence. After spending time in the hotel room recovering from the events of the day, I prepared to venture out to meet the group. Again, Uber was my transportation mode of choice for this outing. It took about 15 minutes to get to the Zocalo area from my hotel. Almost at the destination, you began seeing posh shopping and thousands of people out and about on an early Saturday evening. This was the “cool” area of town and the international infusion of businesses were clearly apparent here. Pulling up to a bookstore, the Uber driver said “here you are sir..” I was like “wait, this is a bookstore.” I wandered in, saw an elevator and pressed the button for the top floor. As it opened, an amazing view of the city at sunset was in front of me. Marcie gestured me over to a table where I joined the group. After introductions, we realized this place was closing early and we departed to find dinner. They chose a place called “Restaurante La Casa de las Sirenas.” Located inside a building, constructed in 1524, this place was cool on a whole new level. We ordered cocktails first, with the waiter saying “would you like the regular margarita or the Manly recipe?” Was this a challenge? “Manly please..”  We all had bottled water, and great conversation mostly focused on relationships. The universal discussion, right? The cocktails followed, the food was ordered and a good time was unfolding. Dinner ended and they wanted to show me around the downtown area. And off we go. Just outside the door, a saxaphone player serenading no one but the music was amazing.

Walking further, it’s tough to describe the Zocalo. Formally: It has been a gathering place for Mexicans since Aztec times, having been the site of Mexica ceremonies, the swearing in of viceroys, royal proclamations, military parades, Independence ceremonies and modern religious events such as the festivals of Holy Week and Corpus Christi. It has received foreign heads of state and is the main venue for both national celebration and national protest. The Zocalo and surrounding blocks have played a central role in the city’s planning and geography for almost 700 years. The site is just one block southwest of the Templo Mayor which, according to Aztec legend and mythology, was considered the center of the universe.

Down one of the major streets, a bit of a surprise: thousands of my closest friends celebrating the Chinese New Year.  It seems many metropolitan cities worldwide have a “Chinatown” and Mexico City was no exception. This was my first such experience, and it was amazing to watch. We walked along the “Reforma” for several blocks, meeting a traveling professor moving to Cleveland for a temporary assignment. We stopped at a local restaurant for tapas and conversation. This “longest day” was drawing to a close, and we all Ubered back to our respective parts of town. Goodnight Moon.

Mexico City, Last Call

On this last day, I got up early to catch the beginning of my last few hours in Mexico City. Walking to the Reforma, I noticed several people in blue running around. Approaching the Four Seasons Hotel, I saw the finish line of a 10k racing event sponsored by ATT. Perhaps 5,000 people were running, walking, or watching the race. I happened to catch the medal ceremony for some of the blind winners, powerful indeed. Several were posing around the huge water fountain along the Reforma to commemorate this accomplishment. To fully wrap up this trip, I circled back to the Chicken and Waffles spot I saw Friday afternoon. It was a 10 minute walk to this part of town. With roughly 10 dollars in Pesos, I was trying to burn through this cash before flying back to Houston later in the day. One thing about service here, it’s allow plenty of time. The coffee was excellent, the chicken (like Swansons) and the waffles, tasty. Back to the hotel, an Uber ride to the airport and then to Texas. Outside of sitting at the wrong gate waiting to board, a very uneventful return to the United States.

The moral of this story, live life now. And, don’t drink Margaritas the night before you are supposed to climb a pyramid.

As always, don’t forget to tell someone you love them. You will likely make their day.  Heartfelt love and appreciation to Mom and Dad, still in love all these years later.

“The Good old days are now…”

~ Tom Clancy