The Beauty of Banff

An Accidental Tourist Alberta Adventure

If you know anything about me, you know I am a huge James Bond fan. While I like the movies, I love the Fleming novels. He (Fleming) paints a picture of a flawed man doing extraordinary things at just the right time. “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” is the sixth book of the Fleming series, exploring the personal life of secret agent James Bond. Much of the story would take place in the Swiss Alps. Through the eyes of a young southerner, this tale was taking place on the Mars ice cap!  But for the readers of the novels, this was the real deal. Here, you’d learn why. This James Bond got married! He’d met his match, someone he could not get enough of: From brains to nail polish and EVERYTHING in between. “Tracy” Draco, and also known as the Contessa Teresa di Vicenzo supported her man, and kept him in check. She reminded him she was an equal, a leader, and in some areas a follower. In the end, Telly Savalas, (Kojak) aka: Ernst Stavro Blofeld and his henchwoman Irma Bunt would open fire at Bond and Tracy in a drive-by shooting. Tracy is shot in the head and killed. Oh yeah, it was also the day of their wedding. As her body rapidly cooled in his arms, he said:

“There’s no hurry, you see. We have all the time in the world”

~ James Bond, aka: Ian Fleming, 1963

Why so much talk about a Bond story? As much as I am a southerner (well, kind of), this book changed my perspective and views of frozen waterfalls, snow capped mountains and the solitude of winter photography. Mostly, do we really have “all the time in the world?” These were random thoughts through the years as I matured from idealistic child to a semi-hardened man.

Calgary and Beyond

Fast Forward to 2011, a dear friend I knew was assigned to Calgary (Oil & Gas) for a few years and invited me to visit. Marathon Oil put her in a spacious circular apartment downtown for the duration of her stay. I flew in twice to help her settle in to new surroundings and she proceeded to expose me to all things Alberta. I remember many wonderful moments from that visit, and the second trip. What stood out most, “it was brutally COLD and amazingly beautiful.”

Back to Banff

I vowed to one day return, and recently I did. Of course the frigid, “Bond theme” was attached to my allure. And most importantly, the local Bear (Grizzly, Black, Brown, Koala & Teddy) population will be napping. On this trip, I was visiting the Banff region, which is in Western Alberta. It’s roughly 80 miles west of Calgary. As this is January, To save room, I didn’t pack clothes for swimming. Getting into my rental car at the airport, the temperature on my telephone was reading a balmy -19 below zero. I was quickly having second thoughts about this trip north of the border, thinking Canada should be on my winter “banned from discussion” list. The drive out of Calgary was peaceful and quiet. Everything around me seemed to be in black & white, with shades of gray on the fringes. It was almost as if the frigid cold was a tightened rope, choking the life out of the area. Or was it just choking me, as this was not my normal climate. Still, to my right I could see the remnants from the 1988 Winter Olympic Games in Calgary. A few people were still using the facility and skiing the slopes as I drove by.  Speaking of driving, I’m on the Trans-Canada highway now and there’s roughly 30 minutes of open  country driving before reaching the foot of the Rocky Mountains. On this four lane highway, you first pass the small communities supporting the city of Calgary. Did I tell you Calgary is often called the Canadian version of Houston? Yep, that’s a whole separate story for another time. Back to the drive to Banff. The snow was blowing, not from the sky, but from recently fallen snow on both sides of the road. Gusts of wind would briefly “white out” the road in front of me, taking any rush out of the western trek. Of all things, the Canadian Rockies put an end to the blowing snow. Soon, I’d pass the Ozada, Seebe, before finally reaching the Kananaskis region. Here, you pass Heart Mountain, Pigeon Mountain, Dead Man’s Flats. And then, Bow Valley & Canmore. Driving along the Trans Canada Highway in this area, I could not help but notice the mountain group called the “Three Sisters” off to the left. For a moment, I was taken away to thoughts of someone (one of three sisters) I know who lives back in Texas. Oddly enough, on this gray day, “The Three Sisters” had the only hint of sun along the entire route. Pulling up to the Park Ranger booth brought my attention back to the present. This was the gateway to my destination. Here you pay a fee (roughly $10 dollars per day) for time spent in Banff National Park. Additional fees are required if you go further north into Jasper National Park. On this trip, I’d spend all time in Banff, So I handed over my Visa Card, got a map, a kind hello and was on my way.

A Slice of Yesterday

Driving into Banff is like finding a small Swiss village in North America. It had been 9 years, and despite a few new restaurants and bars, not much has changed here. The only big difference was the number of people exploring this part of the world. The town was packed with tourists, here to enjoy the nearby ski slopes and trails. Me? I was taking a walk down memory lane while measuring my growing photography skills. Even on this dreary Thursday late afternoon, this place is amazingly beautiful. I checked into my hotel, where you park in an underground heated garage. A dead car battery, from being parked on the street has a nasty way of taking all the fun out of winter travel. Walking into the lobby, I’m greeted by a HUGE fireplace. I’m here to tell you the Canadians don’t play. The staff had someone feeding the fire with large chunks of wood while a few dozen people sat around, enjoying coffee, cocoa or a cocktail.  Yes, pretty legit. After finding my room and dropping off my bags, it was time for lunch and exploring. I had about an hour of light and it was time to get after it!

The next morning, the alarm went off to catch the sunrise. I checked the weather, saw that it was -31 outside and said to myself, “ah… no” and went back to sleep. It was tough enough that I was carrying my camera batteries in an RTIC cup to keep them warm. There was nothing like that to keep me toasty. Wilbert Jones didn’t raise any fools. I eventually got up around 9am. It was only -20 and Johnston Canyon was calling my name. I grabbed a bite to eat on the way out of town, then stopping by the Canadian 7-11 for water. One thing I’ve learned in my current career, dehydration is the real deal and a killer. Most people think it’s only a summer danger. The biggest dangers happen in the winter, mainly because you have no idea moisture is leaving you under all the layers of your clothing while you try to stay warm. And for this Virginia/Texas boy, this is REAL winter! Driving now, I took the back roads to get to Johnston Canyon and it was only a 15 minute drive from town. The parking lot had only a few cars. Some of the younger explorers were getting their climbing gear together. Near the end of this mile plus trail, a frozen waterfall, ripe for climbing.

With 4 camera batteries, my Nikon Z6 and Manfrotto tripod, I was off and moving along the trail. I had the proper clothing (including an insulated hat, mom). Most of my gear was weather tested to -50. So, -20 was a walk in the park. Keep in mind, it was still pretty dim along the trail. The mountains around me were in the 12,000 foot range so the sun had not gotten that high in the sky yet. In my pocket a decade old flask, a gift from Stephen Davis, 8 ounces of water. I took brief sips before pocketing my prize. As the sun broke above the mountain peaks, I pulled out my camera and captured several moments. Behind me, a family of four. The kids were like 5 (maybe 4) and only dressed in sweatshirts, jeans and Nikes.. I’m thinking Canadian Child Protective Services are still looking for those parents. Wait, maybe I was the person overdressed and not acclimated to this climate. That thought quickly faded as down the hill, I can hear the water of the creek flowing beneath a thick coat of ice.

Rounding a corner, I noticed animal tracks heading down the hill and to the creek below. And me, I’m curious enough to see if I can get a glimpse of the locals (hopefully Deer, Bighorn Sheep or a Mountain Goat) in the wild. The path was a bit steep, with snow at times going above my knees. But looking around, this was crazy amazing and beautiful. What I remember most was the silence. A feeling like you have the world to yourself, if only for a moment. I followed the tracks for probably a half mile. Turning a corner, I heard a distant rustle of bushes in the distance behind me. Whatever I was following apparently circled back, and was now watching the “tourist” in his neighborhood. For several minutes, I didn’t take another step. Taking pictures was my way of dealing with that feeling of being watched. Up ahead I finally noticed, what could be a trail up and out of the canyon. Staying alive seemed like a good idea, and I was on my way. It took a half hour, a few broken branches, damaged pride, and most of my water supply to get up the slope and to the designated trail. A fools adventure, but the ability to step out of our comfort zone is part of what defines us, right? By now, I’d been in Johnston Canyon over 3 hours and finally feeling winter nipping at my limbs. Basically, time to go.

Lake Louise

Lake Louise, named Lake of the Little Fishes by the Stoney Nakoda First Nations people,  is a glacial lake within Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. It is located 3 miles west of the Hamlet of Lake Louise and the Trans-Canada Highway. Fairmont’s Chateau Lake Louise, one of Canada’s grand railway hotels, is located on Lake Louise’s eastern shore. It is a luxury resort hotel built in the early decades of the 20th century by the Canadian Pacific Railway.

This is a magical place. I’m told during the summer, the turquoise water is intoxicating. As for me, I’ll take the winter. The Frozen lake is majestic, the ice sculptures are amazing, and the bears are thankfully hibernating. Still, I kept expecting to see James Bond make some spectacular entrance, ordering a Vodka Martini, shaken not stirred. On this excursion, I first went to the Fairmont Chateau Lake bar and ordered a bourbon based cocktail. I spent the next hour watching hockey (it’s on every television here), and people watching. This is where the Canadian wealthy come to play during the winter. They are an odd group. I kept expecting someone to tell me they didn’t like the soup or request their empty water glass to be refilled. Wait, was I being wealth subconscious?  Finishing my beverage, I ventured out to the ice. There, people were skating, exploring, and enjoying this amazing place by the lake.

Lake Minnewanka

This Bond (like) adventure ends at Lake Minnewanka. Leaving Banff, I found myself driving east, and ending up at this incredible place. I’m told during the summer, the cyclists ride the trails, the boaters enjoy the lake, and the hikers explore the nearby mountains. On this late afternoon, I was one of perhaps 10 people in the entire region. I trudged along in the snow for over an hour along the lakefront. The most memorable moment, a lone park bench on the edge of the lake. I pondered the moments that likely happened here through the years. First dates, fierce arguments, and probably a good deal of togetherness took place at this very spot. But for this moment it was me, my camera and my thoughts. The next day, I would be leaving and heading back to the United States. Of course I took pictures, lots of them. This trip gave me much to think about. Most were unresolved life issues back home, the usual. What I’ve learned, not one excursion solved any problem. Instead, they all lend perspective, despite the climate.

Life’s too short for “someday”

~ Marc-Ange Draco, aka: Ian Fleming, 1963

Will I visit Banff again “someday?” I left with that drifting in my head. Any next trip involved returning during a warmer climate, and dealing with my fear of bears up close. Let’s just file that one away for now. The bigger question, do we indeed have all the time in world, especially to explore? The late Anthony Bourdain said it best, “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”  Life allows us all the time we need, as long we are willing to step out of our comfort zone and make each day special or unique.

The return trek to Texas: dropping off my rental car and the Air Canada flight was uneventful with the exception of not having wifi during the 4 hour flight. It was a quiet trip home. Canadians are a proud, engaging and wonderful group. I’m so fortunate to call many of them friends.

Don’t forget to tell someone you love them, it might make their day. This story is dedicated to the aftermath of those who reluctantly give up their children for whatever reason, but not without a fight.

Glenn  ~ The Accidental Tourist

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REO0s6VZBm4