The First 48 Hours
My trip to Cuba was long, but rewarding. On an early Thursday morning, I left home at 4:45 for a 6:55 flight. Just to be clear, I’m not a morning person.
I flew from Hobby Airport to Atlanta and then on to Fort Lauderdale for a late afternoon departure for Havana. Six travelers, from Houston, Los Angeles, Dallas and the Bay Area would converge on Cuba, all with different perspectives, hopes and goals for this trip.
I knew one of the travelers would be on my flight. Having previously connected on Facebook, I met Abril shortly after getting my VISA documents. I’d seen her profile photo, and the woman in front of me looked vaguely familiar. I didn’t want to be “that guy” at the airport trying to strike up a conversation with the wrong person! She sent me a text and we connected shortly afterwards. When the time came to board for Havana, she realized she didn’t have the proper stamps and had to return to the ticket counter. I grabbed her carry on and boarded so she wouldn’t have to find overhead space late in the process. Shortly after grabbing a seat, a nice lady traveling from Nashville sat down beside me. After short introductions (her name is Savannah), I learned she was a pediatric nurse, flying to meet her cousin in Havana. He was a teacher on assignment there for 30 days. In time, Abril boarded, the doors closed shortly afterwards and we were off. The flight was short, 43 minutes from FLL to Havana. The forecast called for rain for our entire stay there.
On Final Approach
Reaching the mainland of Cuba was less than exciting. The clouds clung closely to the earth and we could barely see anything. When we were able to see, it was pouring rain over the lush terrain. Interestingly enough, when the wheels touched down at Jose Marti International Airport, many passengers cheered. With connections between the two countries strained since the 1950’s, these first “free” flights came with a level of passion.
As the Southwest aircraft taxied, it reminded me of a scene from a 1950’s movie. That would be a theme of this trip, a country frozen in time.
The Customs Experience
We deplaned outside to board busses to the Customs facility. The steps were slick and at least one person would begin their Cuban experience bruised after she slipped and fell hard. The ride was short. Upon arrival, there were several booths, with long lines to get through the first phase of customs. We probably waited 20-25 minutes before being screened. I learned from my Belize travels that it’s always a good idea to be first in line, as these customs agents become annoyed quickly. This proved true for me.
After getting past my customs person, I was buzzed through a door to their version of TSA. Let me say these folks were kind, and on the verge of actually having fun. That part of the process moved without a hitch.
On the Road
Our guide, Harold was waiting for us (with a sign) outside the airport. This is his second job, as he is a full time sports journalist. He gave very good information about, the people, culture and government of Cuba. The very first thing I noticed was the sheer number of people everywhere waiting for public transportation. Catching a ride is clearly tough here. Some people actually held out money in hopes of a vehicle stopping to give them a ride.
The second thing I noticed was the effect of the US economic embargo on this island nation. Poverty is rampant here. But the people are proud and happy. I don’t have an opinion on this, it’s just and observation. My final observation, Cuba has a fairly sophisticated highway system. The Russian government invested a good deal of money on roads over the past 50-plus years. And of course I noticed the cars, 1950 American classics were everywhere. The other vehicles were Russian Ladas. This is another sign of former communist influence on this country.
The House
We were the first to arrive at our Airbnb home in Habana del Este Celimar Bacuranao. Claudia, David and Claudia’s mom were there to greet us. The home was brand new with 4 bedrooms. Two of the rooms have dual twin beds, the other rooms have single queen beds. We were told there was a restaurant around the corner from the house, easily within walking distance.
Dinner was ok but filling and the cocktail of choice is the Mojito made with Havana Club rum. Shortly after we arrived back at the house, Sonia and Stacey arrived. Four of the six travelers were on station in Cuba. Alanna and Pouja would arrive the next day. I walked back to the same eatery with Sonia & Stacey as they were also starved from traveling all day.
Off to Old Havana
Our home is very close to the ocean. Some nights you could hear the roar of the sea from our front porch. Claudia described one area where you could dive from a rocky outcropping into a protected cove. Of course, I had to see for myself. Thus, beginning a tradition of me walking to the water each morning before our travels.
Shortly after an amazing breakfast, fresh juice and Cuban coffee, we headed to Old Havana in a 1959 blue and white Chevy. Harold, our driver and the four of us arrived in town shortly after 10. The first thing I noticed was the long line of people in front on the Spanish Embassy. Harold said the country where many Cuban people want to relocate. It was an interesting observation. We were dropped off for a few minutes near the Museum of the Revolution. It was cloudy and rain was threatening, but we were not deterred. We walked down one street, clearly looking like tourists. A man approached us, very friendly and began to engage us in conversation. The next thing we knew, we were in a small bar having (what we later figured out) an expensive cocktail. The place was dark but fun. We paid for our drinks and moved on. By this time, Harold returned and we began our walking tour.
We walked over to the entrance to the port, where the Malecon begins. Here you can see the old fort (El Morro) built by the Spanish to protect the harbor. This is a place where history collides with the future. While looking across the harbor, we were standing on land where a modern tunnel connects to the other side of the city.
We walked a little further down the waterfront, then crossed the highway heading towards Old Havana. Here, you can see classic cars, incredible architecture, and history at every turn.
One of the best parts of this day, was the tour of Museo de la Ciudad in the center of Old Havana. Here, the history of this wonderful country was on display. The other cool element was seeing peacocks roaming the property.
They were not interested in having us take their pictures. I think Abril captured the best image of them. We observed wonderful paintings, sculptures and historical artifacts of Cuba.
We then walked through other parts of Old Havana, stopping at Hotel Ambos Mundos where Ernest Hemmingway wrote “For Whom the Bell Tolls,” a novel about the Spanish Civil War. In the lobby you can see many other photos of Hemmingway, including some with Fidel Castro. Leaving, we walked to a restaurant (ChaChaCha) for lunch. While slightly “touristy” it was a great atmosphere and the conversation with our group was lively. After eating, we walked around and toured additional places including El Floridita, a historic fish restaurant and cocktail bar in the older part of Havana. It lies at the end of Bishop Street, across Monserrate Street from the The National Museum of Fine Arts of Havana. It’s said to be one of Hemmingway’s favorite bars. After wandering down a non descript street to take photos, I returned to find the group gone! All of sudden, I felt like the little boy at Sears, lost. This time, I’m in another country! I knew we were supposed to meet the taxi at 4:30. It was 3:15, so I continued taking pictures.
Just before 4, I met a bicycle taxi driver named Edwin. We talked about family, life and his love of Havana. He took me over the to the Malecon (waterfront) for me to take pictures. Returning to the taxi stand at 4:20, I waited for the girls to arrive and then for our ride back to hour Havana home base. The taxi driver was on time, and the girls arrived shortly afterwards. We were tired but happy with our day as we rode home.
The next edition: Havana Nightlife. A place called Fábrica de Arte Cubano or FAC. From one Accidental Tourist to another, it was pretty incredible.
Glenn, The Accidental Tourist
The prices start at $59.99 for a 20-page book...
