Go West, to Utah

An Accidental Tourist Weekend Adventure

Who has a favorite pair of shoes? That favorite film? What about that favorite restaurant? When it comes to travel destinations, southern Utah is “THAT” place! It’s not easy to get to, but once you’re there it’s like putting on your favorite pair of Cole-Haan loafers. Utah, yep that’s it.

Work has been taking up a great deal of time recently. And while the money has been friendly, free time, not so much. A blood clot in my leg in 2017 sent this tourist on a journey (almost a farewell tour) the past few years. Multiple countries, countless experiences and new friends who are now part of my DNA. The threat of “death in my right calf” has waned in recent months. The medicines are working and now it’s time to replenish resources that funded my nearly monthly “last hurrah” excursions.

Denver Destination!

One cannot just fly directly to Southern Utah. Usually you fly into Salt Lake City (never an inexpensive experience) or Denver and drive west through the mountains. Denver $179,00 round trip, SLC, a mere $498.00. Yep, I love the Mile High City as a launch point, right? I took a late evening Southwest Airlines flight to Denver. The flight from Houston Hobby Airport is always a charm for me. While the neighborhood is a bit suspect, the airport staff is top notch and treat you like a person and not cattle. A very nice feeling, indeed. The only negative, the parking company where I leave my car raised their prices by $2.00 a day. Not bad when you realize businesses are there to make money, just like the rest of us who work.

The flight itself was quiet. Most who head to Colorado for weekend travel, usually leave a bit earlier in the day. While the late evening travelers are usually the business type just trying to get home after a long week. Lots of loose ties around collars and briefcases under the seats as I found mine. I learned the young man to my left was flying to Denver, to then drive home to Wyoming! 6 hours of driving after getting to his car. He said, this was his normal routine. God bless him! While I usually do carry on only, this trip involved checked bags. After gathering all luggage, the shuttle to the rental car facility, and the late evening guy trying to “upsell” every add-on possible for the rental car, I was off. Grand Junction was my destination before heading to bed and that was just under 4 hours away through the mountains. With big plans in Utah dancing in my head, I was off on I-70 west with NPR talking about all things Colorado. Oh yeah, first a large cup of Starbucks for the road.

Night Rider

If you’re a traveler, you either love driving or hate it. There’s nothing in between. For me, it’s a worthy adversary. Especially, when you’re driving through the mountains. And yes, there’s also a fear of heights involved. “Sauce, for the goose.” Driving along, I followed the speed limit pretty closely, not knowing when the road would suddenly disappear and I would plunge off the side of a mountain. Did that sound overly dramatic? Ok, good. As time went on familiar names would become markers of my journey. Exit signs for places like Breckenridge, Vail, Glenwood Springs, Telluride and Aspen would become as routine as the I-70 mile markers. With the passing of each city comes the wonder of work and play in these resort towns. To me, they always seemed like the playground for the financially elusive. While there’s logic and economics to back up that theory, the occasional 1992 Volvo wagon with a burned out taillight passing me was also a reminder that real people, with hopes and dreams lived here too. A humbling thought when you take a moment to actually think about it. 4 hours later, I emerged from my car at the Grand Vista Hotel. A big night in Grand Junction, as a Fire Engine was at the hotel entrance. It appears the patron at the hotel bar had 4 cocktails too many and now his health was in question. For me, it was time for bed not rubbernecking in the lobby.

Desert Trek

Waking up in far western Colorado to abundant sunshine, it was hard for me to believe it was going to be overcast an hour away in Utah. First though, breakfast. It was going to be a long day, where I’d eventually end up far south near the Arizona border. To avoid a case of being “HANGRY,” it‘s a good idea for me to start the day off the right way, with a happy belly. The night before I could see the moon glistening of the mountain peaks and I drove through the canyons. Today a drastic change as I drove through miles of vast open spaces crossing into the Utah frontier. In the distance (like 70 miles away) I could see snow covered peaks of the La Sal mountain range. Also, high clouds in the distance with a slowly dropping ceiling. I’m used to less than wonderful forecasts when I travel, only to encounter amazing weather once on location. Hopefully that trend would continue. One thing I did notice was the speed limit along this corridor. In this part of the world, 80mph seems slightly unreal. But I’m here to tell you this stretch of highway was more like the German autobahn than the U.S. Eisenhower interstate system. They were leaving me in the dust as I searched for route 191 and my turn south to all things exciting in Utah. After about an hour, it was my turn to exit the racetrack and head towards, Monument Valley, Arches, Canyonlands, Dead Horse Point, and the list goes on. Keep in mind, you could easily spend 1-3 days at each of these parks. I had 3 days total. It’s what I do. As I made the exit, a Cheech and Chong inspired gas station. I decided to top off the gas tank until I looked closer. Gas cost $4.50 a gallon here! Uh, wait. No thanks as I had no plans to single handedly fund the cannabis industry. Continuing on highway 191, you begin to see the emergence of motorcycles and off road vehicles. They were everywhere! Apparently, this weekend was the Utah State Jeep meet-up. Lots of the “cool people” and the people “trying to be cool” all converged at Arches National Park, Canyonlands, the town of Moab, and all points in between. As for me, I was making a right turn and heading towards Dead Horse Point State Park. I learned of this place from an Instagrammer I follow. It’s simply amazing how many places there are to explore in Utah. Proper perspective, it took 25 minutes off the main road just to get to the entrance to the park. If you don’t know about these places, there’s little chance you’d find it on your own. After a few stops, where you see cows wandering all over, I reached the gate, paid the fees and joined the caravan heading in. Of course seeing things out of the ordinary is part of my DNA. And this trip was no exception. When you’re out taking photos and just a few bushes away, a beautiful young woman doing #1. We locked eyes, she smiled, I looked away and wandered back to the car shaking my head.

Dead Horse State Park

Driving into the park, you really have no idea what’s just beyond the horizon. I did notice a lot of people on bicycles. For the life of me, I could not figure how these people got here. I mean, this park is 20+ miles from the main highway. Parking the car, I follow the path to the edge of the canyon and my mouth drops.

Moving on to Arches

After those amazing views, I was off to find food in Moab. This town is like the “Austin” of the region. Very cool, trendy, laid back, with a rustic vibe. Stopping by the local version of “Whole Foods.” I stocked up on provisions and headed back to Arches National Park. A year ago, I was struck by the beauty here. The majestic views again did not disappoint. I stayed until dark, knowing I may never return to this place. With a world to see, some destinations don’t get a 3rd viewing. This may be one of those places.

Southern Utah

After stopping back in Moab for dinner, meeting a young man putting himself through BYU business school, and surviving a “Texas Style” dish, it was time for a two hour drive south where I’d explore 2 parks and a “Valley of Gods.” That was tomorrow. Now time to focus on the drive, while listening to NPR weekend, with a splash of Utah public radio, when I could get reception. The hotel was in a town called “Bluff,” about 30 miles north of Monument Valley. Driving through the night, I had no idea what the surroundings looked like. The drive was uneventful for the most part as I found myself following a convoy of Jeeps from the event earlier in the day up north. Arriving at the hotel, I had to find an envelope with my room key, as the front desk was closed for the evening. It appears after 10pm, you’re on your own in Bluff. All tallied, I’d driven about 275 miles on this day and the pillow was calling my name. And that’s how this day ended.

Valley of the Gods

When I walked out of my cabin, it was amazing to see what I’d been driving by all night as I headed south. The drive took me through a modest mountain range AND a dense forest! The morning air was crisp and cool. This would be a good day. While the area was beautiful, the selection of places for breakfast was dreadful. Not sure how you can have a fully booked hotel and restaurant be closed. Food would come later, and my snacks from the previous stop in Moab would have to hold me.

I’d read about the Valley of the Gods a few months back, and the GPS claimed it was a 12 minute drive. This place was not a state or national park, just a pothole strewn dirt road where you could turn into, drive through and marvel. After turning in, you have to navigate a shallow creek bed. For a moment it was not clear if the little rental would make it, but we managed to get through. Driving around a corner, and up a hill, then “bam,” amazing views. I never could figure out the fence. Did the Valley of the Gods have property line?

Goosenecks State Park

It was a good thing Goosenecks State Park had a booth. Driving along, you could leisurely drive to your death if you didn’t stop to pay the entry fee, as you’d have no idea a mini-grand canyon was just beyond the nice lady listening to AM radio while enjoying her daughters photos on Facebook. When you park there’s a short stone barricade. Just a few feet beyond where I parked, a slow drop of over one thousand feet leading to two “gooseneck” carved curves, taking millions of years to create At the base, the San Juan River slowly meandering towards Lake Powell near the Utah/Arizona border. Like always, I have this thing about “heights.” And that was that.

Forrest Gump & Monument Valley

In the middle of nowhere, you never really know what you might see on the road, and Utah was no exception. After leaving Goosenecks State Park, I passed a lone horse standing in the middle of a field. I circled back as he appeared to be fixated on the car I was driving, or was it me. I walked up to him slowly, took a few photos. He quickly become bored of me and left. And me, I had a rendezvous with Forrest Gump and John Wayne.

Driving over a hill, I noticed probably a dozen cars pulled over on the side of the road with people taking pictures in the middle of the highway. After a few seconds, it makes sense. This is the place of the famous Forrest Gump running scene, when he “decided to go home now.” It was still mid-morning and the sun was not scorching yet, and I was like “what the heck, I’ve got to take my Gump photo too.” I wondered when they made this film, what were the directors thinking? This area is one of the most iconic cinematographic locations in America, mostly because most old west films were made here. Now, the Gump people were giving it a whole new meaning. Decades later, fans flock here for this moment of movie history. But down the road, how the west was won and lost.

Monument Valley, is actually in Arizona (even though it is literally surrounded by Utah). It provides perhaps the most enduring and definitive images of the American West. The isolated red mesas and buttes surrounded by empty, sandy desert have been filmed and photographed countless times over the years for movies, advertisements and holiday brochures. Because of this, the area may seem quite familiar, even on a first visit, but it is soon evident that the natural colors really are as bright and deep as those in all the pictures. The valley is not a valley in the conventional sense, but rather a wide flat, sometimes desolate landscape, interrupted by the crumbling formations rising hundreds of feet into the air, the last remnants of the sandstone layers that once covered the entire region. To say you must visit this place is a given. It will change your life, it changed mine.

The Drive Back

Leaving Monument Valley with the ultimate destination of Grand Junction, Colorado was a slight downer. At 275 miles and 4.5 hours, it was the least “fun” way to end a long weekend. The plan was to drive to Moab, catch dinner and then another 2 hours back to the hotel in Grand Junction. Doable, right? I reflected on Monument Valley as I turned right out of the park heading north. Will I ever be back? What did I learn here? Those thoughts simmered on low as I drove towards Moab. It was an uneventful trek. The small towns passed without much thought and the snow capped La Sal mountains loomed in the distance as I pushed forward. It was nice out, but not so warm that I needed air conditioning in the car. Eventually, the signs of civilization as I drove north. Oddly enough, there were arches on the side of the road, worth a photo or two. Stopping in Moab had me reflecting on Austin, my favorite U.S. city not named San Francisco. After grabbing a quick bite it was a 2 hour drive to Grand Junction and the same hotel, the Grand Vista, I stayed in 48 hours earlier.

Vail and Snow

A late afternoon flight had this Accidental Tourist on a tight schedule heading east through the mountains and back to Denver. But who doesn’t have time to stop in Vail? Ok, So I gave myself 60 minutes. Passing several of the skiing locations for the “cool people,” I stopped in Vail. First, the season just ended so the ski crowds were already back at home, nursing wounds, talking about new wonders, and telling war stories. I parked the car, got out and wandered a bit. What a fascinating place. Exploring several streets, stores and trappings of wealth, I was most taken aback by the silence here. Almost a feeling of satisfaction for a season, “well done.” Checking the nearby clock, my time was up and so was this adventure.
The Drive through the mountains, quiet… Except for the :38 second snow storm near Breckenridge, followed by 62 degrees. Mountain weather in Colorado at its finest. Let’s not forget the wrong turn getting gas, the mad dash to catch the last rental car shuttle, and 937 of my closest friends all trying to check bags at the Southwest Airlines counter. Yep, a pretty uneventful end to my time in this corner of Americana..

From one Accidental Tourist to another, don’t forget to tell someone you love them. You might make their day. This  adventure is dedicated to my grandfather, Major Wilson Jordon. He left us 8 years ago this week. I miss him every day.

Glenn
~ The Accidental Tourist