Antelope Canyon

An Accidental Tourist Slot Adventure

“If you’re reading this, you’ve gotten out. And if you’ve come this far, maybe you’re willing to come a little further. You remember the name of the town, don’t you?”

~ Andy Dufresne, The Shawshank Redemption, 1994

Who remembers when Red (Morgan Freeman) was sitting in a remote field reading the letter from former prisoner, now escapee Andy (Tim Robbins) in the movie The Shawshank Redemption? Those moments, like your first kiss or first job are permanently carved into your subconscious fabric.  In the photography world, I’ve had similar feelings. The times when the anticipation was actually dwarfed by the actual destination. Places like: Shark Fin Cove, Xunantunich, Prague and coastal Oregon come to mind. And then there is Antelope Canyon, Arizona. I tried visiting in 2015, but a car accident at the entry closed the slots, sending me back to Houston more than disappointed. But, not this time.

About the Canyon

Antelope Canyon is a slot canyon in the American Southwest. It is on Navajo land east of Page, Arizona. Antelope Canyon includes two separate, scenic slot canyon sections, referred to individually as “Upper Antelope Canyon” or “The Crack”; and “Lower Antelope Canyon” or “The Corkscrew.” These canyons are near Lake Powell and the Utah border.

The Navajo name for Upper Antelope Canyon is Tsé bighánílíní, which means ‘the place where water runs through rocks’. Lower Antelope Canyon is Hazdistazí (called “Hasdestwazi” by the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department), or ‘spiral rock arches’. Both are in the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation.

Antelope Canyon was formed by erosion of Navajo Sandstone, primarily due to flash flooding and secondarily due to other sub-aerial processes. Rainwater, especially monsoon season, runs into the extensive basin above the slot canyon sections, picking up speed and sand as it rushes into the narrow passage-ways. Over time the passageways eroded away, making the corridors deeper and smoothing hard edges in such a way as to form characteristic “flowing” shapes in the rock.

Flooding in the canyon still occurs. A flood occurred on October 30, 2006, lasted 36 hours, and caused the Tribal Park Authorities to close Lower Antelope Canyon for five months.

Travel Times

Flying into Phoenix was uneventful, as Arizona itself is one of my favorite places to visit. The 4.5 hour drive north to Page was beautiful and quiet. In 2015, my journey was slightly more terrifying as I was not accustomed to driving in high elevations. But not this time. On this trip, I’d spend a few days up north, and then become a real tourist, exploring the Grand Canyon. As the hours passed, I soaked in the numerous cactus in a desert like environment. Then, the towering trees and mountains in the Coconino National Forest. Passing Flagstaff (where route 66 is located), the terrain changes to wide open spaces with mountain peaks miles away. Finally, Tuba City and then Page. I did stop at Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell, and my hotel, to chill a bit. My photography tour through the slot canyons was scheduled for the next day.

Walking around Page at night is like being at a living intersection for travelers. During my time there, I met people heading toward points in Nevada, Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and northern Arizona. Page, it seems is the hub or watering hole between dozens, if not hundreds of destinations.

Into the Slots

You are only allowed to explore the slot canyons if you’re with a tour. The Navajo Indians affiliate with several operators (for a percentage I’m sure). It is somewhat like a synchronized dance for the groups. Only so many people are allowed to visit the canyons per hour. When I first arrived for my 11:30 tour, I was reminded of the annual Best Buy Black Friday event at 5:30am. Only, lots of plaid shorts, sandals, black calf length socks and skin cloaked from the sun since the 2008 solar eclipse. This place was a zoo! I kept expecting someone to walk out of the tour office carrying a large Samsung flatscreen TV with the sales tag still hanging on it, seriously. To make matters worse, the bus tours with international visitors, armed with every camera accessory known to man were also there. More on them later in this story. When our tour van arrived, a nice gentleman who I think was Native American loaded us onboard, and began giving history lessons on Page, the Navajo Nation and the slot canyons themselves. He’d done this once or twice and his ability to reach our group showed. The drive from Page to Antelope Canyon took about 10-12 minutes. Once we arrived, the entrance would be described as the ultimate letdown. It was basically a small hole in a rock! I was kinda like “hey, what the _____.” Once inside, a totally different story.

Upon entering, the temperatures dropped from triple digits to the low 70’s. The air was cool, dry and full of history. Just before we got out of the vehicle, the driver said don’t mind these tourists, as they come from a country where personal space is at a premium and shoving is the norm & not personal. A few sharp elbows in the back, followed by gentle smiles and I understood. The guide led us to several key spots in the canyons, stopped other groups and allowed us to set up our cameras for some outstanding photography. God had worked a few hours of overtime here, and it showed. Simply amazing. We probably stopped 10-12 times during the tour. It was an amazing hour in the slots, well worth the $299.00 fee. We walked all the way through, exiting on the other side. There, we took photos of the rock formations leading into the valley. Spectacular hardscape for what felt like miles.  We took a few more photos returning through the canyon. It was odd how the place looked completely different going the opposite direction.

Emerging from the canyon, we returned to the van with all photographers broadly smiling about the gift we’d just received. Personally, I was thankful I didn’t give up about this trip. It had been in my top 10 list for years.

At the end of this incredible day, I drove west a few miles to of all places, Glen Canyon, to watch the sunset. Like the quickly dropping sun in front of me, this adventure would soon be a memory and part of some future memoir of my travels. But for now a quick bite, a good night’s sleep, with a southwest trip to the Grand Canyon the next morning. Thanks for reading.

Don’t forget to tell someone you love them. It might make their day. As we all learn the hard way, Father Time is undefeated. To those who lost their heart in a moment, and now have to walk stoically into tomorrow alone, armed only with hope.

Glenn, “The Accidental Tourist”

“Remember Red, hope is a good thing, maybe the best of things, and no good thing ever dies. I will be hoping that this letter finds you, and finds you well. Your friend, Andy.”

                                                                                                                                                                                                The Shawshank Redemption, 1994