Travel Tales: Sweden

It’s been a while since my last entry. Covid created extreme stress on many essential aspects of my life during 2020. First, the deep connection I had with my children. Before the pandemic, we saw each other regularly. Eighteen months without seeing them was horrific. We’ve recovered in the years to follow, but it was a long journey. Add in the disruption of photography, travel, and writing; it was a complete emotional dumpster fire. Unlike millions around the world, I thankfully emerged. Better than before, I hope.

Fast forward to now, I’m watching “The Accidental Tourist,” starring Kathleen Turner, Geena Davis, and the late William Hurt while flying over Greenland on Scandinavian Airlines. The film reminded me of where I was in the early years following my divorce. In those moments, like William Hurt, I was in recovery mode. In the film, he tragically loses his son. For me, it was a slow loss and an ongoing open wound following my marriage and family’s disintegration. Chaos followed. Years after they moved away, I’d still go to their bedroom door(s), hoping to hear their voices. The kids were in Maryland, changing by the day without their dad. Dear friends Stephen Davis and Sonia Azad kept a taught but steady lifeline during the “dark” times. I’m reminded of one of my favorite quotes “all storms end.” The chaos subsided in time, and the sun again emerged.

TransAtlantic Crossing

Currently, flying over the Arctic Ocean. It’s been an exciting time in my life. Looking at Facebook, you’d think I was living this incredible story. Far from it. My trip to Sweden follows a recent but very unusual Belizean adventure. While Ambergris Caye was beautiful and warm, there were other stories to tell. Few will ever know the details of what unfolded there. But in the end, it was a case study of doing the right thing (not the Spike Lee version) and having it explode in my face. Still, there was always a soothing voice in the background. A calming beach in a sea of uncertainty. That voice is located in a place far away. It’s a story with three years of history, yet still being written. More on that later.

Destination Europe

Landing in Stockholm was a flashback to a Calgary experience a few years back. It was my first time seeing snow (in person) since early 2020. Brutally cold and stunningly beautiful, I’d made it. The Swedish TSA is not as much fun. It felt like these peeps had just finished their day job at the nearby Penitentiary and punched in. A laborious process. No matter what line I stood in, it was the slowest. Still, I made it through. The Stockholm International airport, on the other hand (beyond the customs checkpoint), is modern and vibrant, with a wide array of goods and services. It has a San Francisco (SFO) feel to it.

Uppsala

After collecting my rental car from Avis, I was off to Uppsala. Note, without cell service, I was as blind as a bat flying at noon. Still, the navigational teachings of Wilbert Jones came into play, and I was off. Did I tell you I have not driven in snow since before the pandemic? Yep, 17 degrees and a light but steady snowfall is another way to snap out of jet lag.

Speaking of jet lag, after finding the hotel, The Radisson Blu, I checked in and crashed. The effects of travel-induced sleep deprivation are real. My car, it’s in a nearby parking garage. Not sure about the hourly rate. I never could find a kiosk to get a ticket, and I could not stay awake long enough to ask questions. Let’s hope the car is still there when I check on it Saturday.

After years, the message said, “I’ll meet you in the lobby at 13:00.”

Она вошла в отель Radisson Blu, выглядя так, как будто была на сцене протеста “Ультиматума Борна” на Александерплац, Берлин.

After a few seconds, the anxiety eased. I shared gifts from both Texas and Belize. We had pork schnitzel and champagne for lunch. A lovely moment, indeed. She speaks 3-4 languages. Me? I can barely speak English. This communications pro spent more than a few minutes trying to string together a sentence.

After finishing lunch, we took off to explore Uppsala on foot. It was 14:45 (2:45 pm) and nearly dark. We strolled the many streets downtown, soaking in the magic of Christmas. As a Ukrainian, she explained the history of Sweden like a local (maybe because she’s been here for many years). We ended up at Uppsala Cathedral, the oldest continuous Lutheran church in Northern Europe.

From Wikipedia:

“Uppsala Cathedral (Swedish: Uppsala domkyrka) is a cathedral located between the University Hall of Uppsala University and the Fyris river in the centre of Uppsala, Sweden. A church of the Church of Sweden, the national church in the Lutheran tradition, Uppsala Cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Uppsala, the primate of Sweden. It is also the burial site of King Eric IX (c. 1120–1160, reigned 1156–1160), who became the nation’s patron saint, and it was the traditional location for the coronation of new Kings of Sweden.”

After strolling the vast interior and listening to the children’s choir sing, we moved on.

We had coffee and conversation down the street at the Grand Hotell Hörnan. This was an intimate venue (probably once the hotel lobby). In its prime, it was a 5-Star hotel. Now, old elegance and charm are the calling card. The seating area contained 10-12 tables where we were. I’d been warned (several times) that the Swedish are not too keen on random conversation. But if you know me, you already know that mindset is not part of my DNA. I made friends with the couple next to me, and we enjoyed an ongoing conversation.

Returning to my hotel was quiet. She translated business names and pointed out the restaurants that often changed ownership and menus. Snowflakes danced in front of the street lights as we walked across town. We stopped at the local grocery store (the Coop) as she needed to pick up some things for her daughter. We said our goodbyes, and she took her scheduled bus home. Even in a small city, the transit system here is exceptional. Also, people in Sweden obey the street crossing signs, sharing a criminal look if you cross on red! Still, the cold here was real. Sleep was not so natural as I was wide awake from 2:30 am on…

On to Stockholm

Pulling back the curtain, you could quickly tell Mother Nature had not taken the night off. Snow was swirling about like an old-fashioned holiday postcard.

The train to Stockholm was shortly after 10. So getting my act together was a priority while watching the snow slowly die. It was a tough night, as the side effects of jet lag wreaked havoc on my sleep.

While the 41-minute commute was uneventful, I could not help but think about all the history here. Moving through snow-covered fields, I thought about the mid-1940s. I suspect much tension surrounds this beautiful place. Sweden, like Switzerland and Spain, was neutral during World War II, accepting fleeing refugees fleeing from Nazi Germany. As the train had wifi, I managed to send a few messages and pictures to friends back in the States, while thinking about that moment in time.

Reaching Stockholm, I was immediately drawn to the feeling of power in the city. Perhaps it was because Nobel Peace prizes were being handed out down the street, or it reminded me of Washington, DC, Brugge, and Berlin. I’d spend 5 hours wandering the city. We started in an area called “The Old Town. It (Gamla Stan) dates from the 13th century, but most buildings are from the 1700s and 1800s. It is a glorious labyrinth of charming cobbled streets, alleyways, faded mustard and rust-colored townhouses, and meeting squares.

While there, we enjoyed a fantastic pizza. I’m sure it was triple the cost of an American pie. My Visa bill will let me know the damage in a few days. Nothing back in the states could compare, seriously. Leaving, we explored other parts of the city. Walking around, I had the inner joy of being lost (I later learned she was terrified). She treated me to a cup of coffee at The Expresso House near the train station. Waiting for the 4:37 pm local to Uppsala would complete this field trip to Stockholm.

Back to Uppsala

We were greeted with several inches of freshly fallen snow off the train in Uppsala. It was magical, and I was thankful to be present in the moment. A life lesson learned a few months back while stargazing during a Yoga retreat at Feathered Pipe Ranch in Montana. A long walk around town in the powdery snow, with time to reflect, was the nightcap of this spectacular day.

Family Dinner

The Christmas spirit is strong in Sweden. Regardless of the radio station, you’ll likely hear the Jackson 5, Nat King Cole, Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley, or Mariah Carey singing their versions of holiday classics. I was invited to a home-cooked Swedish/Ukrainian dinner the previous day. Holiday cheer filled the air as I drove to the outskirts of Uppsala. About a mile away from my destination, the Golden Arches. McDonald’s had invaded Sweden! A few minutes later, I arrived, and my host greeted me outside and showed me where I could park. Inside, a warm hello, a huge smile from the daughter (Sofia), and a glare from their 15-year-old cat.

A lovely home, I was escorted to the kitchen (after removing my shoes at the door, of course) where Swedish meatballs, boiled potatoes, beet salad, sliced pastrami, cheese, sauce (which reminded me of a Louisiana Rue), and salmon were in various stages of preparation. But first, a heated beverage called “Glogg.” It’s a spicy Apple cider/red wine combo. Already on the table are candy, chips, and other regional delicacies. You could quickly get full before taking one bite of the main meal. Dinner was terrific, and the chocolate mousse dessert was delicious! Between tidbits, I learned Sofia wants to go into the travel industry and see the world. Her English was excellent, and she served as an interpreter during my visit. After dinner, the adults stayed at the table enjoying wine and soul-searching conversation while Sofia retired to the bedroom to play with “La-La,” the cat. As this was a school/work evening, I did not overstay my welcome. I helped load the dishwasher (like my father would at home) and then returned to the hotel. A walk around town before bed had become the norm, and I was quickly wandering the streets before calling it a night.

Last Call

During this last day, the sun came out for the first time, changing the look of the entire town. Yes, more photography happened. This “quick trip” to Europe ended with a stroll through town, a quiet dinner, wine, and a conversation about life in Sweden. In a nearly empty waterfront restaurant, I learned more details about her parents in Ukraine and her brother fighting to free her country from aggression. The pictures of torn communities were heartbreaking. Why can’t people get along? The tone changed with a few lessons in Swedish communication (with me recording her on video), a quick parcel pick-up, and taking my host home. I slept a whole night (for the first time).

As I leave Sweden, I can only think of when (not if) I’ll return. The people here are proud, kind, thoughtful, and appreciative of the little things in life. This a lesson Americans should pay close attention to (but won’t). While this is not Ambergris Caye, Uppsala is now a new place for me to cherish. Something I would never have imagined a week ago (trust me). Professionally, I’m driven, on a mission, and with purpose. Personally, it’s been a real roller coaster. “This woman from Ukraine, who survived Chernobyl and now lives in Sweden, has always been the voice of reason and clarity.” I am truly thankful for our friendship. Remember, time is luck and not a given.

At the end of “The Accidental Tourist,” William Hurt awakens to realize that his future is not in the past. Struggling to walk (you need to see the film) through Paris, he searches for his destiny. What he found warmed his heart.

This Accidental Tourist can relate.