Going Slow in Caye Caulker

There’s a new “King” in town

The “Accidental Tourist” meets the Koko King

Each trip to Central America brings a sense of excitement and joy to this Accidental Tourist. And while I’ve been visiting Belize for years, the feeling is thankfully the same. In many ways it’s like coming home. No, it’s nothing like Williamsburg, but the warmth of the people here has always been contagious and welcoming. Along the coast there are hundreds of small islands known as “cayes.” While most are uninhabited, some (Ambergris Caye) are well known destinations for international tourism and expat relocation. Often considered the smaller sibling to Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker re-defines what it means to be “laid back” or “chill.” For years, this was a back packers only paradise. The diving and snorkeling here is second to none. If you don’t believe me, click on Raggamuffin Tours, and see for yourself. Mostly though, it’s the people here. Roughly 1,300 call this island home. While visiting Belize over the summer, I visited this place twice, learning there was a new “King” in town, setting up shop in a most unlikely place.

On to Caye Corker

From San Pedro to Caye Caulker is roughly a 25 minute ferry ride. Two services offer trips to the island, continuing on to Belize City. I’ve always enjoyed this journey, as you’re able to truly see a cross section of the people who live in this amazing country. From missionaries, farmers, and school kids, to of course tourists, you’ll see just about anything here. Most sleep or text, while others gaze out at the caribbean pondering life. The ride is for the most part smooth, thanks to the Barrier Reef keeping the rough water from ruining things closer to shore. I’ve met some incredible people during this quick trip, including one Belizean family traveling to honor their mom, who’d recently lost her battle with cancer. On the other hand, remind me to tell you about the time I met the newly retired American with his adult kids and family, passing around a gallon of tequila and gatorade. Let’s just say it didn’t end well on the pier.

Speaking of the pier, when the ferry pulls up there’s usually a line of people waiting with boarding passes to ride to Belize City. The disembarkation is always easy and without issue. Crewmembers help passengers steady themselves, while also moving packages, commerce and luggage to the pier. Walking to the shore, there’s always someone willing to offer taxi services. But, unless you’re heading to the airport or other points south, you can probably save your money and walk. The main part of town is that small. There are only 3 roads in town, all sandy. Front Street runs along the east coast, Back Street along the west coast, and Middle Street exactly where you’d expect it. The vast majority of places of interest to a visitor will be found along Front Street and the west coast. As you walk along heading north, the “Go Slow” mentality is strong here. Locals say hello to all and, the guests act more like distant relatives than typical obnoxious tourists. The main mode of transportation here is walking, followed by bicycles and then the occasional golf cart. This is not San Pedro, where golf carts rule the day. Walking along, you’ll see the blue waters of the caribbean on the right, mixed in with dive tour shops and local merchants selling their crafts. The “Go Slow” mentality is due to historically strong and the thriving Rastafarian culture here, which flows to a reggae beat. If it’s not Jimmy Cliff or Burning Spear at a rasta hut, it’s the latest in punta rock. Drumming groups gather on the beach, along the main street, and at local bars to get their Afro-Caribbean vibe flowing. They play for themselves, but anybody is welcome join in and soak up the soulful, harmonic vibes. Getting closer to the “Split,” you find restaurants and people renting kayaks, paddleboards and canoes. And then you reach the Lazy Lizard, the historical “big dawg” of Caye Caulker. This spot has been the hotspot of legend for years with the motto “the sunny spot for shady people.” When the island was allegedly “split” by Hurricane Hattie in 1961 (more fiction than fact), the southern end of the island grew while the northern end maintained it’s wild and untouched state. The Lazy Lizard is at the most northern point of southern Caye Caulker, and used to have a less than polished image but always a huge following. You can eat, drink, play water sports and people watch. And when you’re done, stumble back to your hotel or water taxi. Things have changed with a new management group. Add cornhole games, a fresh & sturdy sea wall, adirondack chairs and a different genre of music and you get a fun location with more of a family feel! But is it too late?

The King across the Split

As you walk around Caye Caulker you notice signs for the Koko King. It’s a new party place on the northern island of Caye Caulker. Why is that unusual? You can probably count the number of people living over there on your fingers and toes. Many live off the electricity grid, as power poles are slowly bringing electricity there. Others, doing barrier reef research reside there after spending the day in and under the water. During a 2015 visit, I met a group from Norway doing thesis work there.

Water taxis run between two “halves” of Caye, Caulker. The wait was fairly short in the sun but we were soon off in a small motorized boat blaring Bob Marley. Looking to our right, we could see beautiful blue water and dotted homes and business of Caye Caulker (south). In the distance you could see the “spilt” and the Lazy Lizard Bar. Several other boats were in the process of dropping people off and passed us to pick up other visitors.

The Koko King

The landing for the Koko King is a long pier with a swing filled Palapa at the end. Walking to the property looking left you can see an expansive beach, chairs, and umbrellas. Further down you can see the restaurant/bar area with an open area on the roof looking down on the beach activities. Speaking of the beach, there’s also a pool just behind the beach for those who would rather not have fish swimming under them while they enjoy the water. I haven’t figured that out, as this is Belize. But, just the opinion of this “Accidental Tourist.”

Walking up to the bar, I was served by a bartender who I’d met during previous visits to Caye Caulker. Hector is a nice guy, married with beautiful children. After seeing photos of the children and how they’ve grown through the years, a rather strong cocktail appeared. I returned to my selected base of operations with cocktails in hand for a bit of people watching. A few chairs down. just about every guy at Koko King were tripping over themselves to get the attention of two “twenty somethings.” As a former journalist, I wandered over to say hello. I’d only wished my son Glenn Jr. had been there as they were much closer to his age. We sat and talked for about an hour. The ladies were visiting Central America from Canada, winding down their trip with a week in Belize. I told them they’d be in a blog down the stretch and they were nice enough to stop for a photo or two. Then, back for a refill and the book waiting for me at my chair.

About an hour later, I noticed a group down the beach, having a great time and I wandered over to see what the fun was about. The group of five (four men and one woman) were from Nashville. They’d been touring Belize for a few days, spending this week in particular in Caye Caulker to dive, snorkel & fish. I spent most of the my remaining time there talking to them. Of course somebody wanted to get on the swings and I went along to take pictures. The Koko King has something for everyone, including ‘Full Moon Friday” events. They know to throw a party. I recently saw photos of a wedding there. That must have been fun and unique. Just before leaving, a Raggamuffin Tours boat, docked and several of their guests jumped off for a “last call” before their event ended. What a way to cross promote, right?

The ride back to southern Caye Caulker was uneventful as I was trying to make the 6:15pm ferry back to San Pedro. The sun sucks the life out of you for some reason (or was it the cocktails?), and I’m always surprised to be exhausted. Still though, it’s a trip worth taking and I came back for another visit before leaving the country.

This “Accidental Tourist” encourages all to visit Caye Caulker if you’re in Belize. Whether for a long weekend or a day trip, it’s always worth your time. And while there, make sure you go visit the “Lizard” and the “King.”

Don’t forget to tell someone you love them. You could make their day! My love goes to friends living in Southeast Texas, affected by the storm of the century, Hurricane/Tropical Storm Harvey.

~ Glenn, “The Accidental Tourist”