Belize after Dark

An “Accidental Tourist” tour of Island life after Sunset

When many think of traveling the Caribbean, the first thought is of the amazing adventures you’ll experience on the water. Clearly, that’s a focus when you think of coastal Belize. From Southern Placencia to Northern Ambergris Caye, thousands of divers look forward to experiencing the Barrier Reef, Great Blue Hole, the Hol Chan Marine reserve, and countless other dive/snorkel/fishing destinations. But when the sun goes down, there’s more to do than eat a fantastic meal and call it a night.

The Belizean coastline is dotted with hundreds of bars and nightclubs. Many, have a DJ or live music. Who doesn’t want to dance the night away with the Barrier Reef as your backdrop? Over 30 days (and nights) I listened to the music that entertain the life blood of this country. Each year, millions of tourists finance the economy of this tiny country with dollars, euros, pesos, yen and countless other forms of currency. While you may see day photos mixed in, all of these places thrive on nightlife.

Let’s begin with my old standby, Lola’s Pub

I’ve been visiting Belize for years now (in many cases, several times a year). My first stop is ALWAYS Lola’s. As much as Belize is Central America, Lola’s is very Chicago. Owned by former residents of that city, you see all things Chicago sports on the walls here (with occasional Houston Texas/Dallas Cowboys items). While, not facing the water it is a favorite of locals and expats who now call San Pedro home. When there, ask for Jean, Norvel or Trevor. They make this gem a must visit. During this trip, the air conditioning was out, which put limits on how long I could spend there without (a) passing out, (b) buying tons of bottled water, or (c) thinking alcohol will cool me off (which is NOT the case). Update: The air conditioning is on and frosty! Stop by for good food (they work with Nook around the corner) and cocktails.

Fidos Courtyard and Pier

Walking down “Front Street,” there are plenty of options. In the past I’ve always avoided Fidos, for no other reason than it being very “touristy.” This trip though, I embraced my inner tourist and spent several evenings there. Here you can use their diving  and massage services while also shopping for local art at galleries on property. Under a huge palapa and a view of the Barrier Reef straight ahead, their food is fantastic and the staff is amazingly attentive. Ask for Ivan if you get a chance. He’s a great guy! They have live music most nights which always draws a mixture of tourists and locals. I met several band members and they always allowed me on stage to take photos. During my time here, I watched these guys perform at numerous venues around Isla Bonita.

The Palapa Bar

If you’ve been to Ambergris Caye, you probably remember the Palapa Bar being about a mile or so north of San Pedro. About a year and a half ago, they relocated to town, taking over the old Wet Willys location just north of the Phoenix resort. It’s about 50 yards at the end of a pier, with live music daily, and evenings. You can eat, float, drink and be nervous about the fish swimming just beneath you. This newly renovated structure was completed after the previous renovated structure was destroyed by Hurricane Earl, August of 2016. If nothing else, these folks don’t quit. The place is always packed and the service is excellent. I was only there one evening during my time in Belize. Most of my visits were during the day though.

Wayos Beach Bar

I stumbled across Wayos in December of 2015 when I stayed a nearby hotel (once owned by a former KKK member). It’s an old standby for the locals. But in recent years tourists have found this neighborhood gem. It’s basically 10 barstools and a couple of tables. And on one end they squeeze in enough space for a band. Across the beach, you can buy island food from a little stand for a reasonable price. Very tasty by the way! While I had not been there since December of 2015, the bartender remembered me being a former journalist from Texas. On this evening, a band was playing a mixture of Margaritaville & Bob Marley. The place was probably 200 deep, with people dancing on the edge of the street.

Sandy Toes Beach Bar and Grill

This place is fairly new (in relative terms) to this section of the beach. Nestled between Wayos and a few other bars, up and down the beach, it gets it’s name from the beach theme directly across from the bar. Here, you can nestle in a beach chair with your “toes” in the water and order cocktails or food from the bar. “Toes” has a large following and on weekends, good luck finding a seat at the bar or a chair on the beach. The locals own the place then. Just sayin. The beach north of The Palapa Bar and before the bridge has seen a substantial growth spurt in the past 18 months. This was once a place the locals had to themselves. No longer.

The Truck Stop

To me, The Truck Stop is the most original, brilliant idea on Ambergris Caye. Take five old shipping containers, turn them into food trucks (and one bar), add a boardwalk, live music and place to watch the sunset. This, on a section of island (one mile north of the bridge) where there’s not much happening. Add a trivia night, movie night and Sunday bbq’s, yeah I’m there. Too me, it’s an ATM, printing profits while providing memories for children and adults alike. It’s worth a visit or two. I’ve always had a great time there, and a friend who came to spend a few days visiting me called this one of the best stops during her time on Ambergris Caye.

Paco’s Tiki Bar

We found this place by accident (even though there’s a huge sign) on the road from Secret Beach. Nestled between a luxurious home and condo complex, Paco’s Tiki Bar is a large restaurant/bar with grand views of the Belize Barrier reef. I was there one evening during the golden hour and it was incredible. It was also suggested I try the Coconut Mojito. OMG!! Amazing, yes! The locals told me it was the best on Isla Bonita, and I would have to agree. Make it a point to stop by, you’ll be glad. This much I can promise. It’s very much an expat destination, with a few tourists mixed in.

The Chicken Drop (what the ______ ?)

Every Thursday, San Pedro has made a fun tradition of gambling on chicken poop. Yes… you bet on a spot where you hope the chicken will poop and win you some money. $100 BZD to be exact. How they do it might turn your stomach. Let’s just say PETA would raise an eyebrow, but would give them a pass.

The game, which is hosted every Thursday starting at 7:00pm at Wahoo’s Lounge, looks almost like a bingo game without the golden age crowd and with a lot more booze. The place is always packed. Still, I just don’t get the draw. No, it’s not an age thing. A friend just told me there’s a similar venue in Austin. Still, I just don’t get it.

Crazy Canuck’s

Crazy Canuck’s is one of the “Grand Marshals” of San Pedro. Located south of town, they claim to be the first in the world to coin the phrase “Sunday Funday.” From ownership to patrons, I made several friends there. Many were on their honeymoon and wanted to experience Canuck’s while visiting Belize. While packed, on Sunday the crowd is a bit older than the other venues. During the week, they boast on their Hermit Crab races. Live music can be heard most evenings here and during the afternoon on Sunday. The food is also good (especially the wings) and the prices are reasonable. Surprisingly though, Crazy Canuck’s is one of the first places to usher the words “last call.” On many evening the lights go dim by 11 or 11:30. Being south of town late does have it’s drawbacks I guess.

The Dive Bar

While never visiting at night (long story), I have been to the Dive Bar a few times during the day and late afternoon. Owned by a dive shop owner, this is a pretty cool place with a stage and a swing over the water. While a bit pricey, I mostly remember the amazing views and number of mosquito bites accumulated during each visit.

Finally, if you’re looking to really experience the culture of Belize, check to see if any festivals are events will be happening during your stay. During this visit, lobster season began. Every coastal region in Belize had massive festivals to celebrate the yearly event. If you like lobster, you would have been in heaven! To be honest, this a very small sample over 30 days. I didn’t showcase “Roadkill Cafe, Daddy Rocks, The Jaguar Club, Elvi’s Kitchen, Melt, Sandbar, Maxi’s, Rojo Lounge” and countless other great places. Wait, did I mention Estel’s, and Frydays? Also open to entertain you at night!

From one Accidental Tourist to another, enjoy the journey and don’t forget to tell someone you love them. It’s likely to make their day.

Love, to my sister Dorenda!

Glenn ~ The Accidental Tourist